Black is the New Black: Opening

By Ellie

Good Lord.

So I’m back in the Central Business District, this time with my white collar swapped for blue, and it’s been awesome. In fact, I occasionally beam to myself out of sheer happiness while being sandwiched on the MRT in the morning, especially when I catch a glimpse of some poor sod’s commute reading material (so far it’s been the same poor sod; we take the 7.22am train) and it contains words like “percentage yield” and “interest rate” and sports angry pen scribbles in the margins. Over the past two days, the only documents I’ve looked at is an opening and closing checklist and a recipe sheet for ice blended drinks. 1 scoop cocoa, 1 cup ice, et cetera. No comments necessary.

I’m pretty strung out at the moment, so this will be short.

We’re Black, and we’re soft launching right now at the ground floor of Hitachi Tower. You can’t miss us. I know everybody says this, and I’m biased of course, but we’re a little different. We’ve got cool stuff, and I’m not just talking about the vintage cabinet filled with vintage records, two vintage record players and a vintage TV beneath a vintage clock.

If you’re lucky, you may catch us this week while we’re open; our hours are rather randomised at the moment as we’re setting up, but we usually open our doors with equal parts joy and terror during the lunch hour just because we enjoy the near-death experience of rapid-serving coffee and food in the heart of the CBD at the busiest possible time while still being embryotic.

Good Lord.

For now, sleep. The stories will probably come later!

May 6th, 2009 Filed under Random Chatter, Work 2,203 Comments

World Gourmet Summit 2009: Oriol Balaguer Masterclass

By Ellie

Oriol Balaguer’s website is here.

It is unfortunate that one of the most memorable things about the Oriol Balaguer Masterclass was the host person. I say host person because I’m not quite sure what her role was, other than to be a general annoyance.  I was simultaneously afraid and hopeful that someone from the audience would boo her off the platform, but that didn’t happen. Blissfully unimpeded, she proceeded to chatter on throughout the 1.5 hours, paraphrasing and repeating everything the chef said, as if he were incoherent and that we were stupid.

Dear WGS organisers, please ditch the host person next year. Thank you.

Other than this little thorn in our collective flesh, it was an entertaining enough session. It started off with a video presentation (click here for the Spanish version) which outlined the history of chocolate-making in quirky animation, with a question/answer segment where a supposed “child” (who was obviously an adult speaking in a high-pitched and oddly dramatic voice) would ask his mother things like “Can these bitter seeds become choooCOLATE??”

In the second half of the video we were treated to shots of Oriol Balaguer earnestly blinking at his “high tech” machines (his latest collection is called Hightechocolate; very designer, no?) as they beat, shook and piped to the strains of classical music. Modern and slick as hell, as you would expect.

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April 25th, 2009 Filed under Events, Food Reviews, The Good Comments Off

Nectarine Frangipane Tart

By Ellie

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April 21st, 2009 Filed under The Good 2 Comments

I Wouldn’t Try This Again: How an Almost Flourless Lemon Yogurt Cake is Like a Red Panda

By Ellie

Honestly, this wasn’t good.

I’m not dissing the recipe. (Neil Perry’s “Good Food”, page 219, by the way.) I can’t, seeing as how this is the first time I’ve ever tasted an almost flourless lemon yogurt cake. God help us, this could very well be the best recipe for a cake of this ilk. Conversely, I can’t diss lemon yogurt cake generally either, for the same reason: I’ve never tried any, other than this one.

Fault of recipe, fault of food… or fault of yours truly? I may never know, and until I’ve tasted a good one, I’m not attempting it again. After all, life is short, and we only wrestle for things we care for. The perfect chocolate cake? Hell yeah. A fragrant lemon tart? Absolutely. A disconcerting, almost flourless lemon yogurt cake? I think I’ll pass.

Why disconcerting, you ask. Because it is almost several different things, and yet none of them. Like a compromise. Or a red panda. A yogurt cake shouldn’t be this profound. My brother and I sat at the table for many minutes, chewing each forkful thoughtfully.

“Cheesecake? Um… no…”
“Oh I know, it tastes like quiche… hmmm. Wait. Maybe not.”
“Sponge cake?”
“Uh, torte. Wait… no.”
“Soufflé?” 

It tastes most like a cheesecake, but without that rich creaminess. And as far as I can tell from first impressions, it doesn’t have enough personality of its own to be anything other than a wannabe cheesecake, even if the soggy and eggy texture could probably be improved with some tweaking.

April 17th, 2009 Filed under The Bad and The Ugly Comments Off

Hell to Heaven: Pavlova

By Ellie

My first solo kitchen experience took place when I was ten. Up till then, I’d only acted as my mother’s under-skilled sous chef at home. Being nothing if not reckless, I got it into my head that I would make something all on my own, and flipped open my mother’s trusty Joy of Cooking cookbook. With unusual modesty I decided that I would attempt what appeared to be the easiest recipe with the shortest number of ingredients. What else, but meringue.

As you can cleverly guess, what began with such promise very quickly degenerated into something quite terrible. There was general bewilderment and horror all round the Chan household as the product emerged from the toaster oven. (Yes, the toaster oven!) Nobody in my very classic Singaporean family (including yours truly) had any clue what the hell meringue was, but apparently, it was an ill-advised, silly food product which disturbingly resembled industrial packing material. Why anybody would want to eat something so extraordinarily weird was beyond all of us. My dear parents, who were caught off-guard by this unusual event, told me off, a little bit. Ever the sensitive child, I bawled my eyes out in the shower, in humiliation and hurt.

Cut to about a decade and a half later. I’m squatting in my kitchen, staring through the glass oven door at my meringue shells, which are the opposite of me: pale and serene. Meringues are a two-hour investment, and there is much that can go wrong. High humidity, low sugar content, wrong temperature, uneven temperature, over-cooking, under-cooking, over-beating, under-beating. My heart is in my mouth.

The meringues come out of the oven just as how they came out the very first time: weird, and ill-received. Damn. I indulge in a flashback, for about three seconds. This time, instead of a scolding, my parents (who are by now entirely numb to any cooking disaster) make gentle comments as to how perhaps I should throw it all away and start again tomorrow.

Take two, the next day: I crack open the oven door and prod a meringue, again with my heart in my mouth. Crisp. Centres are soft. The relief and happiness is pure.


Pavlovas are divine, and I don’t say this about everything. There is more than a whiff of heaven about them, thanks to their gloriously ethereal nature. Whipped cream, tangy curd and fresh fruit casually piled into a crisp meringue shell which collapses into creamy marshmallowy-ness when you charge in with your fork. If there is one reason to suffer the anxiety of meringue shell making, it is for this, and for this only.

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April 15th, 2009 Filed under Recipes, The Good 4 Comments

French Gastronomy Festival: The Harbour Grill (Hilton)

By Ellie

Berns was a little late arriving at The Harbour Grill, so I was ushered in first by the very efficient, slightly scary, French accented maitre d’. He took me past the open kitchen at a brisk clip, where I had just enough time to observe a beautifully plated terrine being handed out of the kitchen by a genial looking Chef Alexandre Lozachmeur. I was startled when the chef caught my eye and smiled, and I barely managed a shy smile back. (I’ve watched enough Gordon Ramsay shows to always be taken aback when chefs display socially normal behaviour.) There was, however, no time for a meaningful relationship to unfold. If the maitre d’ wanted to seat me, I would be seated, and with some flourish.

On my way to the table, the maitre d’ had very seriously informed me that “there’s a child in the table next to yours; I’m just letting you know.” This rang ominous and a little bit exciting, but disappointingly the subject of the high alert was an ordinary baby in a high chair whose only crime was to bang his little fists on the table in the usual baby way. However, this was enough to horrify his entire family, and to trigger a swift and stunningly efficient relocation to the private room. It was the fastest table relocation involving a baby which I’d ever seen, or more accurately not seen. Impressive!

When Berns arrived and was seated with another flourish, we both nudged each other with happy glee and looked around with the kind of wonderment felt by people who don’t usually go out for date meals in expensive establishments and who were just seated by a slightly scary maitre d’.

What quickly followed was easily one of the best lunches I’ve ever had, at the really absurd pricetag of $30++. The waiter was funny. The sommelier had an interestingly unidentifiable accent and indulged us when we played the “let’s guess where you’re from” game with him. There were high society type patrons to gawk at. All of these things are of grave importance. But mostly, the food was just really really good. It was solidly delicious in a toe wriggling sort of way. Unfussy, sensible, perfectly executed, and everything that had to be fresh, was. I’m leaving you with the menu, and the pictures, which sorrowfully do nothing justice.

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April 13th, 2009 Filed under Events, Food Reviews, The Good Comments Off

French Gastronomy Festival: Le Bistrot Du Sommelier

By Ellie

Tucked away at Princep Street is a little French bistro that is understated in every way. If you’re walking along the corridor connecting the shophouses, there is a danger of missing it completely even if you’re keeping an eye out for it, because there’s really no obvious signage other than a large wine bottle window sticker. Its food is just as modest: unpretentious and hearty French fare, potentially paired with good wine. Potentially, because being the thrifty people that we are, we decided that we could only afford the $30++ set lunch menu. But there is a reason it’s called Le Bistrot Du Sommelier, and the man in question, Max Fedkiw, has an impressive CV (L’Arpege in Paris, and Les Amis here).

Something else which impressed us was the short lineup of Happy Man Bottle Stoppers on a shelf in the dining room.

But, on to the food. (Apologies for the impending earthquake-esque photography; I’m still figuring out how to work the new point-and-shoot.)

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April 10th, 2009 Filed under Events, Food Reviews, The Good 1 Comment

Doughnut Cakes: Wherefore, and Whereto?

By Ellie

What a Doughnut Cake is Not       Above: What a doughnut cake is not

On Sunday, I found myself flipping through the food section in the Straits Times “Lifestyle”, feeling reasonably at peace with the world, when it all changed on page 25. I saw a picture of a doughnut cake. Specifically, a pile of pink and blue iced doughnuts resting upon Fruit Loops, with plastic clown heads peeking out of their centres and small round biscuits iced onto their sides like so many perfect little tumours. Check it out here, under “Flavours” > “Donut Cakes” > “3″.

I couldn’t tear my eyes away for a while. It was perfectly transfixing in the way that only a pile of plastic clowned and biscuited doughnuts upon Fruit Loops can be. I’m grateful that I didn’t see this in the flesh, unveiled at some poor child’s birthday party, because there’s really no telling what awkward thing I would have done.

Perhaps, I’ve grown old. I’ve lost the childlike innocence necessary to appreciate with simple glee a doughnut cake such as this. To the typical kid, this could be the stuff of happy dreams, the kind of birthday cake that you throw tantrums about for days before and boast about for weeks after. And I salute the parents who bravely give in to such tantrums, because I’m not sure I’d be able to purchase a doughnut cake myself without struggling painfully with existential questions, or just ones which go: “What’s wrong with a normal birthday cake?” and “Are the tumour-like biscuits really necessary?”

It’s not just the kids though. According to the article, adults are gracing their weddings with doughnut cakes as well. Curious, I searched “wedding doughnut cake” on Google Images.

Oh dear.

I would very much like to be proven wrong about this, but I’m not sure if a wedding doughnut cake could ever be anything other than a bad idea. There is something about doughnuts which makes them increasingly ridiculous the more you try to ice them into sophistication. Just imagining a five-tier wedding doughnut cake as Martha Stewart would have done it - i.e. carefully covered in royal icing, festooned with flowers and beribboned - is making me giggle a little bit.

And yet, if you were to attempt to be true to the intrinsically crass (but delightful!) nature of the doughnut, and opt for a simpler arrangement of simpler looking doughnuts, would it look like anything more than a simple arrangement of simple looking doughnuts? Would it be festive enough? Would guests realise that it’s a wedding cake, as opposed to bad catering? Is there no perfect in-between, no happy place for wedding doughnut cakes to inhabit with dignity and pride? I am tortured by these questions.

April 7th, 2009 Filed under Random Chatter, The Bad and The Ugly Comments Off

Lemon-Lime Curd

By Ellie

I read somewhere that women in particular are drawn to yellow.

Although to be fair, this goes beyond a colour. And I don’t think you need a high level of oestrogen to desire the tangy, glossy voluptuousness that is lemon-lime curd.

This is my go-to recipe when I have leftover egg yolks. If you’ve been ripping your way through egg whites like I have (please refer to the last post), you’ll appreciate having a go-to recipe involving egg yolks, which isn’t for hollandaise. Something that stays alive and well for more than half an hour (heck, two weeks) and is versatile enough for you to make first, and surely find a use for later. 

And such uses! You can slather this on bread or butter cookies, stuff it into pavlova, pipe it onto chocolate cupcakes. Swirl it through cheesecake. Fill tarts with it. Make layered cakes with it. Bathe in it. Mostly, I just lick it straight off the spoon. In fact, I highly recommend directly ingesting this stuff as an interesting alternative to the traditional imbibing of coffee at the desk, post-lunch. Try falling asleep with this in your mouth!
 

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April 1st, 2009 Filed under Recipes, The Good Comments Off

Merely Egg Whites

By Ellie

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March 27th, 2009 Filed under Photo Stories 4 Comments

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